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mechengrkj

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mechengrkj last won the day on August 21 2015

mechengrkj had the most liked content!

About mechengrkj

  • Birthday 06/03/1986

Profile Information

  • Location
    Logan, UT
  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • Zip Code
    84341
  • Model
    Starion
  • Type
    ESI-R
  • Model Year
    1988
  • Transmission Type
    Manual
  • Factory Color
    Sophia White
  • Interior Color
    Black-Tan
  • Status
    Restoring

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  1. Thanks for the suggestions but trying to use the desktop version on my phone is just about as bad as using the web version. I was hoping someone new of an app that was compatible with the forum like Tapatalk or something so that I could browse as well as receive app notifications. I have found a couple apps that say they are compatible with the forum software but they are pretty much just the web version in an app which is pretty much worthless.
  2. Does anyone know if there is a phone (iPhone 6) app that works with this forum? I really hate the web based version on iphone. I know there used to be an iphone version but it's been a couple years since I could download it.
  3. I started noticing last week that my clutch is slipping when I am accelerating and hit about 3K RPM in third or fourth gear. RPMs will jump up to about 4.5K and then drop back down quickly. Thinking back to when I rebuilt the engine after buying this car, I remember that the clutch slave rod was just some homemade thing that the PO used because he had a super stiff clutch installed. I'm wondering if the rod is too long and not allowing the clutch to fully engage. Does anyone know how long the rod on 88's should be? There is pretty much zero play in the pedal before the clutch starts to disengage the trans so I'm thinking this might be the problem. The current clutch is a Spec Stage 2 with about 7k miles on it and the flywheel was reground during the rebuild as well. I have added a manual boost controller to up the boost pressure to about 15psi but I doubt that I have exceeded the 345ft-lbs torque limit for this clutch seeing how it's pretty much completely stock. Any help is appreciated!
  4. Unfortunately both broke and were lost so I'm thinking making a plastic mold or something similar is the only option I have.
  5. The little plastic tabs on the sides of my HVAC control panel are broken and now the panel just kind of flops around. Any suggestions on fixing something like that?
  6. Just out of curiosity, where did you buy your LED bulbs? I've heard if you buy higher quality ones they don't have as many problems as the cheap ebay ones.
  7. Wait...So they spray if you ground the body of the injector or if you ground one of the pins on the injector?
  8. My bad. I see that now. In response to that, If starndard bulbs use 2A, the max listed for these is 10A so I wouldn't use more than 5 bulbs per relay, meaning you probably can't use it on the hazards because you would have 8 bulbs pulling 2A each which would probably burn up the flasher.
  9. I don't know where you are getting that info from but Novita's website (they are the ones that make them now) says that it requires 1 lamp which in general requires about 2 amps of current to illuminate the bright filament. LEDs generally use a few hundred milliamps or about 1 tenth of that of a regular bulb.
  10. I had lots of issues with my flashers when I used the EL12. Not necessarily your exact issue but things that didn't make any sense. Once I changed over the the CF12ANL-01 that pcristquester mentioned I didn't have any other issues. The thing that I did that convinced me that it was the flashers was that they only worked when I had at least one regular bulb in any of the circuits. After a bunch of research I found that the EL12 is an electromechanical flasher NOT and electronic flasher. Electromechanical flashers still require a certain amount of current in order to open/close. That would make sense why the hazards work and not the blinkers, because there are twice as many bulbs flashing when the hazards run. The CF12ANL-01 on the other hand is an electronic flasher, meaning that it is a circuit (kind of like a 555 timer circuit) that opens and closes the circuit regardless of the load (current) on the circuit. And this is also why it doesn't click like the stock flashers and the EL12. Hope this helps if you haven't already figured this out.
  11. I have a rebuilt one from RockAuto. $40 plus shipping. Doesn't have the mounting bracket though.
  12. You can buy new ones here. I've been using one for a while without any issues.
  13. Welcome. Where in Utah are you located?
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