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How To Do a zero play clutch pedal


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Anyone else ever thing about using a flanged bearing in the cluth pedal main pivot?

These bushings and spacer...

(Bushings MB058634, Spacer MB151139)

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/clutch%20pedal/th_2013-02-04160650.jpg

 

 

http://starquest.i-x...r=asc&start=100

 

 

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/clutch%20pedal/th_CR-73A.jpg

What about the clutch slave valve, anyone remove that?^^ i see pq did in the link aboove. i never knew we had a damper valve in the clutch slave cylinder.

 

My master cylinder box made me think the mod was alreay done lol

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/clutch%20pedal/th_2013-02-04235601.jpg

 

Also i wonder where that thread is on using a bushing in the pedal to master pivot?

 

update, just odered the spacer and bushing from www.mitsubishiparts.net. Total $18.26 for one Spacer MB151139 and two Bushings MB058634

I would really like to find a bearing to fit the upper pivot. edit in: found one , scoll down

 

Scroll to post #13 for the full part number list to do it all with off the shelf OEM parts

Edited by JohnnyWadd
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Yeah, you can do that.

 

Here is another alternative: I bought a teflon lined brass/steel sleeve bearing from McMaster-Carr, P/N 6679K14. It is for a 10MM shaft (oem). I bored out the hole in the clutch pedal 15/32" which provided a light press fit of the bearing into the pedal. Then I used a file to grind down the bearing smooth on both sides of the clutch pedal.

 

 

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Since we are talking about clutches, I figured I'd upload some more photos.

 

I took a part the original slave clevis:

 

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That rubber 'cushion' can easily be replaced by four steel 12MM washers

 

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Now, removing the new clevis from my new clutch master cylinder and replacing the rubber grommet with the steel washers;

 

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New modified clevis combined with a brand new Mitsubishi pin

 

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Test fit on pedal....zero slop

 

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Removing that 'cushioner' from a new slave cylinder.

 

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Rebuilt parts coupled with a SST clutch hard line and braided line.

 

 

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Don't forget lubrication

 

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[URL="https://www.hotrodders.com/media/p1010690-jpg.110530/"][IMG]https://www.hotrodders.com/d1/xfmg/thumbnail/110/110530-24f95d3fb4d4c7351b6ac792bbc1a97b.jpg?1610403059[/IMG][/URL]

 

Checking and lubricating the switch:

 

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and finally bench bleeding (only works if your steering column is out of the car (and helps if your brake master cyl and booster are out too)

 

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It's an orifice. It'll delay the hydraulic operation of the slave cylinder. Not sure why it was there in the first place. Kind of like a 'soft start'???? I simply took Indiana's suggestion and eliminated it. Cannot comment on the performance difference because I haven't driven this car yet, haha.

 

kev

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what exactly is the point of the cushioner?

is there a difference in the feel or clutch performance?

 

http://www.hotrodders.com/gallery/data/500/medium/P1010565.JPG

 

Its supposed to slow the engagement (restricts fluid leaving the slave slightly but let fluid enter fast)

My mazda 323 gtx had one and it made a slight difference when i removed it.

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A urethane pivot bushing would be nice. I wonder if there is already one in production? Would need to be 20mm o.d. and 14mm i.d.

I searched around ebay and asked sellers for dimensions and this one is close

8-1104 Civic 84-87 14MM Rear Sway Bar Bushing Kit Prothane

 

 

14mm i.d. and 25mm o.d. and flanged too.

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I got my mc master carr bushing. No go. Its too small. Turns out the hole in my clutcht was at 13.5 mm or about .53". I measured wrong.

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/clutch%20pedal/th_2013-02-12213353.jpg

 

But i did find a bearing perfect for the main pivot

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/clutch%20pedal/th_C360_2013-02-13-21-36-43.jpg

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/clutch%20pedal/th_C360_2013-02-13-21-37-48.jpg

 

It gonna need the inside of the clutch pedal to be slighyl sanded or maybe just the black paint removed, then it will be a tight fit. This bearing also has a flanged version.

 

Next up i will show you how to eliminate that cushion thing without washers

Edited by JohnnyWadd
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I got my mc master carr bushing. No go. Its too small. Turns out the hole in my clutcht was at 13.5 mm or about .53". I measured wrong.

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/clutch%20pedal/th_2013-02-12213353.jpg

 

But i did find a bearing perfect for the main pivot

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/clutch%20pedal/th_C360_2013-02-13-21-36-43.jpg

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/clutch%20pedal/th_C360_2013-02-13-21-37-48.jpg

 

It gonna need the inside of the clutch pedal to be slighyl sanded or maybe just the black paint removed, then it will be a tight fit. This bearing also has a flanged version.

 

Next up i will show you how to eliminate that cushion thing without washers

 

Cool! Sorry the Mcmaster part didn't work. I wonder why? Mine fit great. Had to bore the hole larger to press it in.

 

I'm curious as to your cushion mod...try to retain the feature of the the threaded insert being allowed to spin within the clevis. It makes final adjustment of the clutch much easier. That's why I like simple washer approach...it retains the original features but just gets rid of the 'squishy' rubber.

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Here is all you need to eliminate the cushion and fix both pivots for less than $30.00 total with all new Mitsu parts (clutch clevis hole should be worn less that 15/32")

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/clutch%20pedal/th_2013-02-19191215.jpg

 

First Thanks kev for the heads up on the mcmaster-carr fix bushing p/n 6679k1n $3.12

Next you the new clevis pin MF473490 $1.14 at www.mitsubishiparts.net

Then for the main pivot you need the bushings x2 MB058634 $3.44 for both, and spacer MB151139 $3.67 at ww.mitsubishiparts.net

Finally get yourself a Nissan p/n 30631-3s501 for $10.00 from the dealer or similarly priced online. You want the one will the last four numbers 3s501. That will let you ditch the cushion without filling it with washers.

 

Installed pics to come when i get the actuall nissan pushrod peice in hand.

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