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Fuel system refurbishment


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#1 varzaman

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Posted 10 March 2019 - 08:00 PM

Hey guys,

Trying to get as much done outside the engine as possible before I no longer have a garage lol.

So one of the big things I want to go through is my fuel system. I just want to go through my plan and to make sure that I get everything that is needed to be refurbished, so I'm here to make sure I'm not missing anything. About to install a fuel pressure gauge to see what my fuel pressure is before doing anything as well.


So if I wanted to clean up/replace my fuel system, here is what I got so far planned:

1. Drop fuel tank, make sure it is rust free
2. Change out the fuel filter at the tank
3. Remove the cone filter at the fuel pump
4. Make sure fuel pump works.
****5. What to do about the hardlines?
6. Replace the rubber tubes from the hardline to the fuel filter (in the engine bay)
7. Replace fuel filter (in engine bay)
8. Replace hose from fuel filter to throttle body

This sound like it?

Edited by varzaman, 10 March 2019 - 08:01 PM.






#2 techboy

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Posted 10 March 2019 - 08:29 PM

Sounds pretty good.  At the fuel pump on the tank there is some copper washers you'll want to replace when you test the pump.  There is a kit you can buy that has all the washers and everything in it.

You really shouldn't have to do anything about the hardlines that run under the car unless they were damaged or rusted for some reason.  When I restored my car, before I put all my new fuel stuff on I had my wife hold a towel over the end of hard line at the rear of the car while I took compressed air in the engine bay and blew all the old nasty gas out. Now, my car also sat 16 years, so if you might not need to do that.
1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

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#3 varzaman

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Posted 10 March 2019 - 08:40 PM

View Posttechboy, on 10 March 2019 - 08:29 PM, said:

Sounds pretty good.  At the fuel pump on the tank there is some copper washers you'll want to replace when you test the pump.  There is a kit you can buy that has all the washers and everything in it.

You really shouldn't have to do anything about the hardlines that run under the car unless they were damaged or rusted for some reason.  When I restored my car, before I put all my new fuel stuff on I had my wife hold a towel over the end of hard line at the rear of the car while I took compressed air in the engine bay and blew all the old nasty gas out. Now, my car also sat 16 years, so if you might not need to do that.
Sounds good.

The car I have never sat for that long, so I think it should be ok. I'll still send some air through though.

Edited by varzaman, 10 March 2019 - 08:53 PM.


#4 BC_99

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Posted 10 March 2019 - 10:06 PM

If you are going though the fuel system, be completely thorough. Do it once, do it right.  Clean the hardlines, just in case. Unless you have owned the car since new, you donít really know the entire history of it. I have dealt with the rusty, varnished gas, etc hardline issue by plugging them under the rear of the car and filling them with muriatic acid, let that sit for a bit, and flush with water/baking soda mix, then flush again with acetone and blow out with compressed air. That should have your lines clean and ready to go. Finally, plug them again and fill them with a mix of gas and 2cycle oil or gas and atf to rust proof them until ready for use again. I have used this procedure a few times with good results.

BC

Edited by BC_99, 10 March 2019 - 10:10 PM.

Steering coupler replacement U-Joints are available here...
http://www.starquest...howtopic=145280

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#5 varzaman

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Posted 13 March 2019 - 09:00 AM

View PostBC_99, on 10 March 2019 - 10:06 PM, said:

If you are going though the fuel system, be completely thorough. Do it once, do it right.  Clean the hardlines, just in case. Unless you have owned the car since new, you don't really know the entire history of it. I have dealt with the rusty, varnished gas, etc hardline issue by plugging them under the rear of the car and filling them with muriatic acid, let that sit for a bit, and flush with water/baking soda mix, then flush again with acetone and blow out with compressed air. That should have your lines clean and ready to go. Finally, plug them again and fill them with a mix of gas and 2cycle oil or gas and atf to rust proof them until ready for use again. I have used this procedure a few times with good results.

BC
Will do, will do. I'll flush the lines out.


Dropping the fuel tank is the only thing I'm worried about. Any tips or gotchas?

Edited by varzaman, 13 March 2019 - 09:01 AM.


#6 techboy

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Posted 13 March 2019 - 10:07 AM

View PostBC_99, on 10 March 2019 - 10:06 PM, said:

If you are going though the fuel system, be completely thorough. Do it once, do it right.  Clean the hardlines, just in case. Unless you have owned the car since new, you don't really know the entire history of it. I have dealt with the rusty, varnished gas, etc hardline issue by plugging them under the rear of the car and filling them with muriatic acid, let that sit for a bit, and flush with water/baking soda mix, then flush again with acetone and blow out with compressed air. That should have your lines clean and ready to go. Finally, plug them again and fill them with a mix of gas and 2cycle oil or gas and atf to rust proof them until ready for use again. I have used this procedure a few times with good results.

BC

That's good information right there ^^^.  Nice job BC.
1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
1999 Eclipse 4G63 ... heavily modified.
Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

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#7 Bradrock

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Posted 13 March 2019 - 01:01 PM

I just bought a quart of Acetone last week at our small town hardware store. I could not find it on the shelf.
When I asked at the counter ,they looked at me like I was asking for a pound of weed!
I had to tell them what I wanted it for before they went 'out back' to get it. It used to be right in the painting aisle.

What's up with that???

Edited by Bradrock, 13 March 2019 - 01:03 PM.

Run's with scizzor's

#8 Turbo Cary

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Posted 13 March 2019 - 07:09 PM

Another thing to consider doing is rebuilding the fuel pump harness with slightly larger gauge wires if you plan to run a larger fuel pump. The Walboro 255 lph kit is cheap and a good pump. I ran into weird issues once where sometimes the ecu fuse would pop under heavy acceleration. I went one gauge larger on the pump harness and never had that issue again.

Make sure to replace your filler neck rubber hose. They usually have universal replacement ones at Advance or AutoZone. They sell it as a 2 foot tube but you only need a few inches of it. Keep the extra and use as turbo piping couplers. Very stiff material that won't swell or slip off.

#9 BC_99

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Posted 13 March 2019 - 08:53 PM

View Postvarzaman, on 13 March 2019 - 09:00 AM, said:

Dropping the fuel tank is the only thing I'm worried about. Any tips or gotchas?

It’s not bad.

Like stated above, plan to replace the filler neck coupler hose. Put the car on jack stands. Drain the tank into a bucket or large pan. Remove the LR wheel and the plastic shield in the back of the LR wheel well. Disconnect the filler neck hose. (You’ll probably have to just cut the hose). Use a floor jack and a plank of wood (2x6 or 2x8) across the bottom of the fuel tank to lower the tank after you remove the nuts holding it in. Disconnect the wiring to the fuel pump, and the fuel lines. That’s about it, as I recall. Not difficult at all.

BC
Steering coupler replacement U-Joints are available here...
http://www.starquest...howtopic=145280

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#10 Phantom

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Posted 13 March 2019 - 09:17 PM

Not sure which application works but pretty large selection.

https://www.fillernecksupply.com/

#11 varzaman

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Posted 14 March 2019 - 02:19 PM

Thank you very much for the information! Hopefully this doesn't take too long.

#12 varzaman

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Posted 19 March 2019 - 12:51 PM

Hey quick question.

What is the best way to attach the rubber hose that goes from the hardline to the part of the throttlebody with the long tube thing (idk what to call it).

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To me it looked like it was just glued on and then clamped with the kind that has a screw you use to tighten the band around the hose.

Is that the proper way to do it?

#13 importwarrior

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Posted 19 March 2019 - 03:32 PM

The stock car had a spring type hose clamp
Had to use pliers to pinch the clamp tabs and slide it down to get hose off.

I got my replacement from ace hardware.
Make sure it fits very snug.

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#14 DSMracespeed

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Posted 19 March 2019 - 03:56 PM

If you are replacing that hose,get one made for fuel that will fit snug on it and clamp it with a hose clamp.

Jerry
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#15 varzaman

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Posted 19 March 2019 - 03:57 PM

Is it just a clamp on the other side too? On mine it's just clamped on, but I dunno what the previous owner did.

#16 DSMracespeed

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Posted 19 March 2019 - 10:45 PM

Clamps on both ends should be fine...itís a fuel return line.

Jerry
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'88 Conquest TSI...4G63 swap
'86 Lotus Esprit Turbo...Restoring
'08 Evo X MR
'03 Evolution VIII
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'02 Protege5
'88 CRX Si
'04 RX-8




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