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#1550999 My 87 Conquest TSI Pro-Resto Mod.

Posted by Blackmount on 19 July 2017 - 10:59 AM in Restoration Center

View PostTheDemon, on 19 July 2017 - 12:22 AM, said:

I hope you're not planning on going N/A with the g54b... I see ITBs and no plenum for induction

Im only saying that because the motor will be a dog as its a huge iron anchor used in forklifts sans turbo

You would be amazed what you can get out of an engine just by opening up the intake.... I look at it this way, the Magna made 130hp/160tq out of the 2.6L.. based on what i read aroudn, people were getting 150whp+ out of them. NA Carbbed on other platforms...approx 180hp. That isn't too bad if I can do that Cam, Port work, a very serious Intake, and a good set of headers.

But this isn't a forsure plan yet.... I still have it in the back of my head to put my 3.0L block together instead and go back to doing a 72 swap like I originally planned now that I have a transmission that bolts up, that was my biggest hang up on the swap in the past...

So it all depends how the next few weeks go really and how I feel about it. I'm not 100% sure I can even get that manifold anymore

View Postspeedyquest, on 19 July 2017 - 08:29 AM, said:

I'm most interested in where you found that intake adapter. But really whatever you have planned I say go for it.

Do you plan on coming to the All Mitsu Cookout this year?

I would like to, but it is hard for me to plan that far ahead right now. If I do I will probably be in one of my 3000GT's. Curtis (The Host) is a friend of mine.

AS far as the manifold goes, Weber makes it. You can find the DCOE kits all over the place, but you can get just the manifold for like $350 from Recarb.

#1550979 My 87 Conquest TSI Pro-Resto Mod.

Posted by Blackmount on 18 July 2017 - 08:50 PM in Restoration Center

I still have this car... I won't lie - it has been tough to stay motivated... Between tracking down the parts I need to put the car together, and the car being in a storage unit making it a pain in the tail to work on, and extremely easy to forget about... it's just been hard.

I actually put the car up forsale twice.... absolutely loosing my tail on it too.... both times it was nothing but terrible trade offers, or kids who wanted it but didn't have the money...

each time I got so annoyed with people wasting my time I pulled the ad down and said "f*** it, I'm going to keep it"

So now I recently moved into a new place with some extra garage space so I can bring the car home.... but after some long thought and research, I decided to take a slightly different approach with the car... It's not conventional, and most will probably be like "...unsubscribe" but I will still be keeping the G54B... I have a strange attraction to it for some reason...

but here are some teasers...

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Posted by Blackmount on 01 May 2017 - 12:51 PM in Just plain ol' B.S.

Cylinders tend to mishape, oval, egg, whatever you want to hear... depending on where the piston is in it's stroke may cause it to drain slower or faster... Could be as simple as worn rings.

#1547030 "Grace Silver" MPI/06SL2-20G/MegaSquirt

Posted by Blackmount on 01 May 2017 - 12:49 PM in Restoration Center

Man that thing looks incredible!

Looks like it is ready to kick some tail at the Track, or on the street!

#1547029 kev's restoration - viper blue tsi

Posted by Blackmount on 01 May 2017 - 12:45 PM in Restoration Center

Looks incredible!

#1547028 G54B MPI EFR 7670 with T-56 Magnum build (w/ megasquirt)

Posted by Blackmount on 01 May 2017 - 12:27 PM in Engine and Performance Mods

Cool stuffl

#1545922 Selling out my 35 year collection of parts.

Posted by Blackmount on 13 April 2017 - 01:31 PM in Parts for sale

View PostStarquestRescue, on 09 April 2017 - 08:57 AM, said:

I do have a 87 with all that stuff on it. It is quite a job to remove the main harness. The engine harness is separate and eaier to remove.

I should only need the engine harness, and whatever goes in the engine bay. I think there is some relays and various electrical things in the engine bay that mine is probably missing...

#1545273 My 87 Conquest TSI Pro-Resto Mod.

Posted by Blackmount on 03 April 2017 - 09:18 AM in Restoration Center

Mitsubishi Engines are extremely good and overbuilt... I do not believe they are any better or less then anything Toyota offers.

The 4G63 has two less cylinders and is every bit as competitive as majority of the V8s and Turbo 6 Cylinders in the world both modified and stock, the 6G7X won't make the peak HP the 2JZ can make on similar setups, but the 2JZ won't make the Torque the 6G7X Makes... Both can handle 800+hp on a stock long block and be reliable.

Just Mitsubishi's themselves are not the best quality vehicles, and become very cheap with time.

Because they get cheap, lots of people who want to go fast for cheap buy them, and end up blowing them up because they used the cheapest parts, didn't do any maintenance, and had no idea how to tune it right, then go blaming the car/engine for their mistakes and giving them a bad name.


#1545272 My review of "Turbo Labs of America"

Posted by Blackmount on 03 April 2017 - 09:08 AM in Just plain ol' B.S.

Good to hear, I knew Austin from Pre-Turbo Lab life, It started out excellent, but he got way too busy for the work load he was taking on, and alot of people were missing turbos for months at a time.

Sounds like he has got things sorted out and turned back around, Turbo lab has always done excellent work, just turn around time got out of control for a year or two.

#1545210 Selling out my 35 year collection of parts.

Posted by Blackmount on 02 April 2017 - 10:53 AM in Parts for sale

Any and all electrical that belongs in the engine bay of a 87 Widebody Turbo... Engine Wiring harness, relays, fuseboxes, etc. I don't know what all belongs in there, my car use to have a LS and everything stock was removed.... If you have any of that, just name your price.

Also looking for a usable cylinder head. I plan to drop it off at my machine shop, so it doesn't need to be ready to bolt on.

#1545208 My 87 Conquest TSI Pro-Resto Mod.

Posted by Blackmount on 02 April 2017 - 10:02 AM in Restoration Center

I have a very strict rule about swaps with car. I always keep the same brand engine in it that it came with. So Engine swap options are Mitsubishi only. 4G63, 6G72, 8A80, etc.

I am going to stick ti the G54B though.

last week I purchased new Pistons from Dad, and sent the old ones with rods off to my machine shop to have them fitted, resized, etc with ARP Rod studs.

I had them back from him same day, and they looked excellent!

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I am in Houston Texas on business so I won't be able to assemble the bottom end, but when I get back... I'm sitting here order parts for the car as we speak.

I figured with Texas/Houston being the size it would, I would maybe get lucky on some craigslist deals for parts or maybe a whole car to bring back with me. I can't believe there was not 1 single search result between Houston and Dallas. searching for Conquests or Starions

#1544949 Starion Keyrings

Posted by Blackmount on 28 March 2017 - 09:56 AM in Parts for sale

Just bought one, one of my favorite accessories for my cars is a quality keyring for each one :)

#1544835 2 of 2. My Pride and Joy, My 3000GT-VR4.

Posted by Blackmount on 26 March 2017 - 09:50 PM in The Other Addiction


For the sake of information, and the versatility of a 10:1 TT car

I finally got around to installing my 16T's on my VR4. I ran into problem after problem, as the car just insisted on fighting me taking everything apart, then the downpipe reallly fought me putting it back on, so I ended up chopping it up and building half a new downpipe from scratch. I dropped the rear manifold off at my machinist so he could remove a broken stud. He also machined the flanges flat. I also did some basic maintenance while I was in there. All new intake gaskets, replaced a few hoses, new Knock Sensor, New Spark plugs, etc. All new Turbo gaskets were used as well.

.045 off the Head Flange
.020 off the Turbo Flange

Turned the boost controller back just a hair and hopped in the car and went.

Holy crap did it make a huge difference. The Torque is just insane, 1st gear comes in as a bit of a snap... It's been raining here the last few days, and it breaks all 4 tires loose almost everytime. It's pretty incredible considering I am still limiting myself with the stock injectors.

I need to get some logs and videos but on 11.5 PSI, and holds that steadily from 3,000 RPMS to 7,000RPM... Pump 93 Octane with 10-15% Ethonal, I am only peaking at 108% Injector Duty Cycle running the car all the way up to revlimiter. I have yet to see a single count of knock come my way. Base Timing advance still set on 7 Degrees. The one breif moment of dry we had I took the car on a Run from a stop in 1st all the way to redline in 4th without issue.

Based on what reputable members here have said, IDC's on MMCD based loggers are generally 10-20% higher then reality... but take that with a grain of salt.

The next step is to get Chrome ECU, and I am thinking High Impedance ID injectors per DG's advice. 725-1000+CC injectors, that way I (Hopefully) will only have to buy injectors once. (The endgoal for this car is a DR750 500-600hp on Pump gas, Daily Driver, With all the creature comforts, including A/C and Heated Seats)

Stock 10:1 TT
1 Step Colder NGK Copper plugs Gapped at .030"
360 cc Injectors
Stock ECU
3SX TD04 SS Manifolds
3SX Rear Precat delete pipe
3" Downpipe
No Cats
Stock Active Exhaust Catback
Stock Intercoolers
Stock Airbox, K&N Drop in
Stock Y-Pipe
Inverted Stock BOV
Black Stealth LCDBC
DW200 Fuel Pump
-6 Tank to Rail, Fuel Lab Filter

Car made 283AWHP (Mustang Dyno) On stock Manifolds and 12 PSI on 9B's last summer. I'd like to get it on the Dyno again, I am thinking it is around the 320whp now, but the Torque is what is really impressive.

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Posted by Blackmount on 23 March 2017 - 10:19 AM in Just plain ol' B.S.

View PostSkullzaflare, on 23 March 2017 - 10:14 AM, said:

he installed a NEW head, so i doubt he had it machined lol

That was my thinking too, It's easy to say "Oh it's new why would I need to Machine it." But alot of the new heads I have been looking for the at for the G54B seem to be from no name companies with questionable hardware that have been sitting on shelves for X Time. It is important to have them double checked to be true. My Machinist is very good, and he charges about $30 a head to mill them. $30 bucks is great insurance.


Posted by Blackmount on 23 March 2017 - 10:05 AM in Just plain ol' B.S.

Did you have your head Machined before install? even if bought from someone who said it was, it is important to assume they it hasn't been milled or has been sitting in terrible conditions for an extended amount of time. It may seal fine, but be quick to blow with light detonation, or high boost.

Metal Head gaskets are so picky about a True Surface, and even with a Composite or "Squishy" Gasket, can fail easily from Knock.

Had that problem on a car that is extremely difficult to blow headgaskets using a squishy head gasket.

Had the Heads milled, put a MLS on it with stock head bolts. Never looked back.

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Based on your compression numbers though, That would have to be one hell of a blown head gasket.

The car posted above all 6 cylinders still measured within 8 PSI of eachother at 150-160ish PSI But the machine shop found the Valve guides were done very poorly, and there was alot of evidence of leaked compression around the seats on the valves.

You may have a much bigger problem given your compression numbers, but also keep in mind I never saw coolant in the oil in this car after about a 1000 miles of the symptoms. Car would just load up the cooling system with compression under high load and Force it out the reservoir. It all depends where the Headgasket blows, and if it reseals during low load/idle/off

#1544521 How well does a 17x10 wheel fit the rear? **NEW PICS ADDED**

Posted by Blackmount on 22 March 2017 - 01:37 PM in Just plain ol' B.S.

I have 15mm on my 3000GT VR4, I did not have to trim my studs.. I cannot comment on the stock lug length, but alot of wheels have holes in the back of the hub that are the same spacing as the bolt pattern. I believe this is done for weight savings, but most wheels they are deep enough to let your stock studs poke through... I used the supplied nuts with the spacer to bolt it to the hub and it worked out great.

Different wheels, different car, but I was hoping that might help.

Also if you do end up going that route. Make sure the nuts the spacers come with are Acorn shaped so that they will center the spacer to the hub correctly.

Also your car looks SUPER clean with those wheels. Looks fairly Period-Correct too.

#1544419 1988 Mitsubishi Starion GSR-VR Build

Posted by Blackmount on 21 March 2017 - 02:16 PM in Restoration Center

Where them Pics at! haha Anxious to see this thing.

#1544418 How well does a 17x10 wheel fit the rear? **NEW PICS ADDED**

Posted by Blackmount on 21 March 2017 - 02:15 PM in Just plain ol' B.S.

at 12MM I would put longer studs on. It might have just been a better idea to go with 15mm spacers that bolt onto your hub and have their own studs... I know good ones can be pricey though.

Very Anxious to see how it looks though.

#1544320 kev's restoration - viper blue tsi

Posted by Blackmount on 20 March 2017 - 11:57 AM in Restoration Center

Incredible build. Very well done, and looks well thought out.

#1544108 How well does a 17x10 wheel fit the rear? **NEW PICS ADDED**

Posted by Blackmount on 17 March 2017 - 01:47 PM in Just plain ol' B.S.

View PostPreludedude, on 17 March 2017 - 11:49 AM, said:

I wasnt sure if anything over a 275 would fit...I work for Michelin, so I had to get BF Goodrich/Michelin tires so I could get my discount. And they dont offer tires over 275 (not in a summer street tire)...

Yeah, I had that problem.... I wish I could get Michelin Pilot Super Sports in a 315/35/17

For future info if you feel like going wider on your next set.

Mickey Thompson Street Comps are a really good street tire that are intended for handling and driveability as oppose to straight line grip.. I got really good mileage out of them. No problems in rain, and even saw some snow a few times. Moderately priced at like $180 a tire

If you have alot of money burning a hole in your pocket you can't go wrong with the Eagle F1 GT's, They check all the right boxes for a summer street tire...but they are like $330 a tire.

The Sumitomo HTZR's aren't bad considering they are the cheapest option in that size at $140 ea.

#1544107 1 of 2 of my 3000GT's, The "Race Car"

Posted by Blackmount on 17 March 2017 - 01:40 PM in The Other Addiction


#1544103 1 of 2 of my 3000GT's, The "Race Car"

Posted by Blackmount on 17 March 2017 - 11:57 AM in The Other Addiction

So I've been wanting to put heat back in this car just because of how much I drive it, and how much air flows through it, it gets pretty chilly pretty quick.

I was going to put a stock system in it, but it really is quite massive and bulk - there wasn't much room with where I mounted my electrical and everything.

I ended up finding this guy on Summit Racing for 149.99 https://www.summitra...ezNhRoCU0Pw_wcB

It came with everything to install it except hoses.

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Cut to length and then made the Fan-Speed Harness look pretty.

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Single 14ga Wire to supply power, also made to look pretty-er

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I need to make a new cover for this switch panel, the aluminum I used is too thin and bends/dents so easy.

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Took it out for a test drive last night - Man does this thing work awesome. It was 25*F outside last night, and I was driving around in a T-shirt. Even on the highway the low setting was more then enough to keep the car comfortably warm.

#1544098 How well does a 17x10 wheel fit the rear? **NEW PICS ADDED**

Posted by Blackmount on 17 March 2017 - 11:29 AM in Just plain ol' B.S.

I am so happy you did not stretch those.

With the right spacer they should fit well.

I tested fitted my 17x10.5 +27mm Deep Dish Terminator Replicas with 315/35 tires on the rear of my widebody. I figured with a 24mm/1in. spacer the fitment would be about perfect.

#1544097 G54B MPI EFR 7670 with T-56 Magnum build (w/ megasquirt)

Posted by Blackmount on 17 March 2017 - 11:27 AM in Engine and Performance Mods

I have a nice Conquest Shell I'll trade you with the tunnel cut, and professionally welded for a T56 :D Stock interior fits well even.

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#1543872 Kilowatts instead of Hp??

Posted by Blackmount on 14 March 2017 - 03:14 PM in Just plain ol' B.S.

It's just another form of measurement is all...

But briggs doesn't use CC's to measure power, CC's is used to measure engine displacement. Similar to Liters, and Cubic Inches.

example our engine is 2,555cc or (Rounded up to) 2.6L (Most engine displacement in liters is rounded UP to the nearest 100cc)

KiloWatt is an actual measurement of power where Horsepower is essentially a semi-made up one (Waits for s*** storm) that is devoloped through an equation based on FtlbTQ multiplied by RPM divided by 5252

1 HP = 0.7355KW