Jump to content

My 4g63 and t-56 swap (TONS OF PICTURES


TsTKl
 Share

Recommended Posts

So you may or may not have noticed I don't have a brake booster in my engine bay. Thats because my buddy who used to work for tilton engineering is good at convincing me to spend money on my car to make it faster and better. So what does he suggest? Aftermarket pedal assembly with adjustable brake bias and no brake booster for better brake pedal feel. What do I do? I go ahead with this dumb idea. In the end it wasn't that dumb since I can now run ANY intake manifold my heart desires and not have to worry about space issues, and I have a lighter better pedal set up with adjustable bias.

 

First thing that needed to happen was take all the oem crap out. I found this brake pedal bracket in the oem set up which is what gave me my idea for my mount:

 

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0182.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0181.jpg

 

As you can see here we are using the original braket to find the angle of the firewall to the steering wheel mount. I didn't use the holes on this bracket because I also made a spacer so the bracket isn't butted up against the oem firewall which isn't very flat. I used the stock brake booster spacer as my pedal assembly spacer. We milled it down to about 7/8". We then drilled slotted holes into the back so we could mount the assembly to the fire wall, and then find where the braket wanted to sit so I could drill the four holes in front for the steering wheel mount. The design is very simple.

 

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0193.jpg

 

This was before I painted it, but its just as good:

 

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0198.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0202.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0201.jpg

 

I had to modify the gas pedal. I have since modified it more, but you'll get the basic idea from looking at this photo. The throttle cable would have frayed if I had left it like this so I bent it back some.

 

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0203.jpg

Edited by TsTKl
Link to comment
Share on other sites

pedal assembly: 180

three master cylinders: 90 each

fittings from summit: about 100-150

bias adjuster knob: 180 but you can get a plastic one for like 100 or so

bracket: homey hook up.

 

I still have to get the car together so I can make a pedal stop that prevents me from over extending my clutch slave cylinder, which is internal, built by tilton, and was exensive a fk.

Edited by TsTKl
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
  • 7 months later...

well its a small update but an update none the less. My brakes work now and my new flywheel came in and was machined already. Once its balanced I can put it all together and then the car could theoretically start, although I'm still waiting on saving up for a new intercooler and finish my new thermostat housing and get a new radiator.

 

It sounds like a lot, but compared to the distance I've come, there isn't too much left. I'm excited...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I feel like im in the same boat. All my car needs is this that this and that hmmm maybe it still needs a good bit but its nothing compared to the things I've done already. Looks great man that's a sick set up with that trans.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

I'll come back and add the thermostat housing here soon

So its been a long while and I guess I forgot to add this. Its done now though. I Learned how to weld while I was at school, although I don't remember which parts of this I did and which I didn't (most was not me). Here is the super awesome tiny oem thermostat housing:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/2013-07-24210812_zpsb56fbb33.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/2013-07-24210824_zps80d5be17.jpg

As you can see, I fly cut the flange so it would be less likely to leak. A leak back there would be a huge pain to deal with.

I also welded up a -6 an fitting on a stock oil dip stick tube for positive crankcase pressure releif. The catch can I started building will self drain into this.

picture

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/2013-07-24210858_zpsf0c08ee3.jpg

Lastly I mounted my LC-1 Wideband. I can switch between narrow band or wideband whenever I want. I'll start off with the narrowband as its less things to get working when I first start the car.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/2013-07-24210912_zpsa02a0a38.jpg

Not pictured but I also got an oddessy pc625 battery, and made some decent progress on the wiring.

Edited by TsTKl
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

very nice, r u driving it yet?

No, unfortunately not yet. It gets closer and closer every day. School got in the way for the past two years so I put the project pretty much entirely on hold (500 miles will do that), but now that I've graduated I have a lot more time. I should have a decent update sometime next week.

Very nice build man.

Thanks you

Edited by TsTKl
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's the Radiator Water Temp Switch Part Number: MB356704

So continuing with with build story. Today we focus on the Interior and Wiring.

I decided that I wanted to make the car lighter by removing any un-needed Wires and sound deadening. Since I was removing the AC, ABS, Cruise control, and other electronic devices I decided I didn't want any of the wires for those systems there. I removed EVERY SINGLE WIRE from the whole car, and started from scratch:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0106.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0105.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0107.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0099.jpg

The last photo was taken in the beginning of the process when I was still removing wires.

Now on top of the obvious wiring changes listed above (AC etc) were some other small electrical changes. I wanted to keep my heater functioning because I don't like being cold and in case the engine ever started to get hot during a race. Another thing I kept was the radio and dash. I wanted the car as light as possible, so I converted to 1983 style manual heater controls

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/2013-09-13164822_zps736a0a60.jpg

Now unfortunately I didn't grab the power resistor from the donor car so that the fan would work properly. I didn't realize since I was ditching the A/C control unit (which didn't work) I would have to change from the transistor style controller for the fan to the older power resistor style. I found a 91 mazda with a denso fan and was able to grab the resistor off that and make it work.

I wanted to integrate everything so it could be removed easily as possible. My Innovate LC-1 Wideband O2 sensor was one of those things.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/2013-07-24210912_zpsa02a0a38.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0303.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/2013-09-13172642_zps6a4cb9d3.jpg

The final picture shows my ECU wiring harness, for the interior side only. I added a 38 pin molex firewall connector so that pulling the engine would be easy and wouldn't require any sensors to be unplugged. The wideband plugs into this right next to the chassis harness connector. Things like the calibration switch/LED and fuel pump relay/cut off are incorperated into this connector. Its very nice when everything works together. Here's where I ended up mounting the ECU. No more A/C unit to take up that space.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0185.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After tearing the whole thing apart, it was time to start putting things back together. I made sure I cleaned everything before re-assembling the interior.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0187.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0192.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0197.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/DSC_0226_zps077423e2.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/2013-09-27152536_zps6b9b9f21.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/2013-09-29173127_zps0a054f30.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/DSC_0239_zps542f9750.jpg

I had to convert to an electric speedometer, and was able to use a 98 eclipse speedometer. This was good since it has the same signal for speed as the ECU, meaning I would only have to convert the signal once from the T-56 transmission to the speedo, ECU, and EPS (yes, EPS).

I did still want to lose as much weight as possible out of the dash despite me still using it. I found the factory shin guard had a very large un-necessary piece of metal which could be drilled out:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/motor/DSC_0054.jpg

The factory 83 glove box weighed considerably less than the 88 glove box because of this:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j223/tstkl/conquest/2013-09-18191441_zps4c8eaf86.jpg

And lastly, not pictured, I was able to remove the large steel bracket which follows the length of the dash. As a result, the dash is considerably lighter and easier to remove/install.

As it sits the car is 99% done interior and wiring wise. It has been very nice being able to sit in the car again and look at the interior, which I really like on these cars. The car needs some money to run again as it sits, so I can't give a timeline on when it will be "roadworthy" but believe me it will be very roadworthy once its done.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like your project! Why didnt you use the tach from the same car as the speedo?

I'm not too big on aesthetics, so it doesn't bother me too much that they are different colors. I could always have a cover made or something. The speedo HAD to be used because it wouldn't work otherwise, while the tach still worked and bolted in easy.

I should also mention I removed ALL of the seat belts, and will be replacing the front belts with manual style belts. That saved a considerable amount of weight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...