jabbott126 Posted February 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 and Here it is hopefully will be on the car this weekend http://i1063.photobucket.com/albums/t508/jabbottonline/HKSexhaust_zpsff958fd1.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonnieJ Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 (edited) If its got braces most likely you are going to have issues...just speaking from experience. None of our manifolds have braces and have not cracked. Hate to see you having to get it re welded over and over and over. http://i1063.photobucket.com/albums/t508/jabbottonline/599185_10151167172694401_1092623622_n_zps31d73aa4.jpg Edited February 6, 2013 by RonnieJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jabbott126 Posted February 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2013 What would cause it to break? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonnieJ Posted February 7, 2013 Report Share Posted February 7, 2013 (edited) From the picture it looks to be thin walled exhaust tubing. That if thats the case its not going to hold up. Also the welds dont look good at all. Do you know if it was even back purged? What info do you have on it? Again not talking crap just trying to save you some headaches down the road Edited February 7, 2013 by RonnieJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jabbott126 Posted February 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2013 Well the metal is a pretty good thickness the welds and ok. So i may just reweld it at work. If i do have issues with it ill have to have get a nicer one made for me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonnieJ Posted February 10, 2013 Report Share Posted February 10, 2013 That's good for sure. Can't wait to see it done 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19cturbo Posted February 11, 2013 Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 Should have went with 3" exhaust if your running that holset.. it needs to breathe 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchi934 Posted February 11, 2013 Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 lol i like the oil filler cap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jabbott126 Posted February 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 Should have went with 3" exhaust if your running that holset.. it needs to breathe Im going to be running a 3" DP and 3" pipe back to the HKS exhaust. I will have a E-cutout in that mid pipe so that when i want to go all out it will be straight 3" to the ground, but for highway and city driving it will be nice to not have to listen to the loud droning noise coming from a 3" exhaust. dont get me wrong i love the sound of 3" but when you have to listen to it on a 10 hour drive to a car show it gets pretty damm annoying lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted February 13, 2013 Report Share Posted February 13, 2013 try 3 inch for 2300 miles... went from NY to Las Vegas.gets old fast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jabbott126 Posted February 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2013 lol that sounds like lots of fun expect for the whole bleeding ears part Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Dude, thats an SMB, and your gonna blow the wastegate flange off like all the others. The material he used for the collect is pure crap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 just run a stock manifold with a $30 adapter. Otherwise youll have to modify your downpipe in a few weeks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jabbott126 Posted February 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 k well i contacted a guy around me under the name RevShift makes some quality s***. Ive started talking to him about making a twing scroll mainfold for me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonnieJ Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 I can make you one of you are serious. Example of our work http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/382300_522993717721244_215012972_n.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jabbott126 Posted February 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Im serious but ill need to know pricing so i can make a savings fund for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonnieJ Posted February 14, 2013 Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Ill pm you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jabbott126 Posted February 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 Working on lots of random stuff and saving for exhaust manifold 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jabbott126 Posted February 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 Ok so someone answer me this; With my intake is it necessary to run a thermostat? And if so were and how do i run one? Also does anyone know where i can find a toothed crank pulley for wasted spark now? becasue Mookeh stopped selling his and i dont think fuel injection pro sells theres anymore (plus not planning on sending $900 for their kit). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jabbott126 Posted February 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 OK so D2's are in the mail and all my suspension is almost completely prepped for D2 installation. Also RonnieJ is building me a twin scroll Manifold and 3" down pipe to 3" mid pipe that will tapper down to 2.5" to fit perfect with my HKS exhaust. Really pumped to get all this stuff in progress. Also getting my hot side ceramic coated. and a big lot of parts getting powder coated black (controller arms, timing cover, oil pan, spare valve covers, and lots more). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted February 25, 2013 Report Share Posted February 25, 2013 (edited) as far as tstat housing install you need a remote TSTAT housing. http://www.ipsco.org/Custom%20Services/Remote%20thermostat%20housing%20custom.htm http://www.google.co...CCqXs0QGP0oCYBQ somthing like this.http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/common_problems/hgf_pages/HGF_images/2kit.jpg http://web.tiscali.it/elise_s1/stat4x.jpg Edited February 25, 2013 by importwarrior Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted February 25, 2013 Report Share Posted February 25, 2013 BE sure if there are any sensors in the tstat housing that need a groundyou will have to add a grounding wire from the tstat housing to the chassisor engine block in the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted February 26, 2013 Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 Your gonna max out that 2.5 exhaust. the FIP kit just used 2 readily available tstat tops from autozone for I believe the sbc350.You could also try meziere. What are your plans with the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrngwae Posted February 26, 2013 Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 (edited) ^^^what he said. go to advance auto and get 2 of there fancy chrome dress up thermostat housings for the sbc... put them together and you have yourself a remote thermostat. its like 15bucks... done... now what i have done is drill and tap a hole into the motor side of that exhaust housing and put a hose to the back of the water pump steel tube that runs around the back of the motor. so that you have constant flow across the spring on that t stat. remote t stats are prone to be slow and cause overheating issues due to lack of a constant flow. i also "T"d that little hose to the back coolant line in the head that runs to you heater core,,,,, cause the only way your flowing coolant to the back cyl is if the heat is on.... do some digging around.. you will see most people that have ran into trouble with the back cyl once they go mpi with these style intakes. they were actually using copper head gaskets to try and stop blowing the back cyl. Edited February 26, 2013 by wrngwae Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jabbott126 Posted March 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2013 (edited) Wrngwea,Having some difficultly figurin out exactly what you are talking about there. So what needs to be drilled and tapped and what needs to be T'd ? Pics would be awesome. Funky Phil,I figured the 2.5" will most likely max out but i have it on there for a DD exhaust noise. i will be adding a E-cut out to the system after all is said and done so that when I need the extra power there is no restriction at all. as far as my goals. 400-450whp thats what im shooting for. IM gonna be running MS2, ignition: 4g63 wasted spark w/ 36-1 VR trigger wheel, Fuel: E-85, 1800cc injectors, Walbro 400lph, Exhaust/Turbo: JDL Twinscroll header, JDL 3" DP to a 3"-2.5" Mid pipe that will attach to my HKS catback, HX35 w/14mm TS exhaust housing, Block: Wiesco std pistons, Stock race preped rods, full engine rebuilt stuff from Dad, Ajusa head gasket, APR head studs and rod bolts, Head: Ported and tested on a flow bench, 3.3L beehive springs, 1mm os ss valves, LS1 retainers, (For the Cam im not sure on what i want to run yet i would like to have a steady idle but would like to still get the performance gains of a bigger sized cam.) Edited March 1, 2013 by jabbott126 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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