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R 154 Toyota Supra Turbo trans mounted to a wide block


Bill Hincher
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Well here she is - driveshaft came out perfect, installed, and maiden voyage around the block was completed. I can speedshift that thing like crazy now - I about burned the rears off hitting second a couple times - very nice! The only things I noticed is that when in neutral and clutch is completely out, that I can hear some throwout bearing noise (at least I suspect thats what that is...) but it seemed to dissipate a lot after it was warmed up and driven around for a little while. Also, when downshifting, getting into 1st from 2nd is really tough but I am sure that's the transmission - I bought this thing from a bone yard and have no idea of its history, so I may be doing a rebuild down the road. But it's completely driveable... no grinding at all, reverse lights work, speedo works perfectly - just absolutely loving it! Just waiting on my leather shift boot to finish up, but other than that - its done. :)

 

Went with a hurst t-handle with momentary switch for the nitrous. I like it... works for me.

 

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10171/r154-46.jpg

 

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10171/r154-47.jpg

 

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10171/r154-48.jpg

 

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10171/r154-49.jpg

 

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10171/r154-50.jpg

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Here is the big question. How does it feel gear ratio wise? Comparing to the stocker.

 

It feels outstanding! 1st and 2nd seem to be a bit 'longer' which I really like because I always felt that they were too short on the stocker.

 

I really need to get it to the track to completely feel everything out in a controlled environment, but from my first impressions... everything just feels 'right' - better than before, it just feels more proper.

Edited by Turbo_Addict
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First gear is DEFINITELY much better and a longer pull, every gear shifted soo smoothly and it just felt like it was right, not scared to shift at high RPMs... I loved the Supra tranny set up if it wasn't for all the clutch friction discs it kept braking I would have kept it in. (NOTE mine was a hack weld job it did not have these machined bolt ons) If everything is good and nothing ever brakes with this set up I strongly recommend it to anyone wit a StarQuest, either the Supra tranny or the T56 six speed tranny I am leaning more towards myself very soon.. :rolleyes: Are definitely better than the skinny stocker trannys.. Edited by VICE
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I'll put her through the paces and do what I can to test any potential breakages of clutch disks - when I spray it, it's making over 530 ft/lb of torque, so any weak links should be quickly apparent.

 

Also, shift boot finally came in today - I like it... it almost looks like it is supposed to be this way.

 

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10171/r154-51.jpg

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How did U get the bottom to stay so neatly? Those universal shift boots are soft all around, with no wire base.. I want a black one.. =D

 

I just used the screws (made tiny holes through the boot) in the bottom of the plastic that hold the two pieces together for the rear and sides of it, and on the front there are no screws there, but I just hot glued it into place up there. Seems to work just fine.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I wasnt real happy with the finish 'look' of the original set up so I wanted to include some strength with style

so I went back to the original pattern and made some changes

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/wideblockr154.JPG

I added two ribs at the top and thinned the existing ribs, so I wouldnt gain any wieght, I needed to raise the roof of the housing on the inside , so I needed to add material at the top, I decided to do it in a way to add diagonal ribs in the system, so the added structure was in the 'crown' of the housing without adding too much material and keeping the weight down while adding torsional strength

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/wideblockr1541.JPG

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/wideblockr1542.JPG

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/wideblockr1543.JPG

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/wideblockr1544.JPG

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/wideblockr1545.JPG

I needed to add material to the starter bolts, for some reason, they had shrunk too much during casting. I wanted to build a direct bolt system and that included using the same bolts as the OEM set up

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/wideblockr1546.JPG

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/wideblockr1547.JPG

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/wideblockr1548.JPG

 

I will be shortening the back by about 3/8 in and adding 1/4 inch in the front so I can move the clutch fork back about 12mm , I wanted to move the folcrum piont in the throw out bearing back so it could not bind, I felt it was better to allow the fork to push instead of pull the bearing I will have it in casting the end of this week

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I dropped down the back half by 1/4 inch, I will be adding 3/8 inch on the bellhousing side

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/wideblockr154%20001.JPG

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/wideblockr154%20002.JPG

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  • 2 weeks later...

here I am again, sanding and sanding and correcting

I subtracted 1/4 off the back and added 7/16 inch on the front to back away from the clutch and flywheel so you can add anyclutch you want, plus I moved the throw out bearing folcrom back 1/2 so I had more travel in the throw out bearing body

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock172.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock173.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock174.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock175.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock176.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock177.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock178.jpg

I added a much more pronounced flnge area at the front

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock179.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock180.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock181.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock182.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock183.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

this is the second gen casting of the wide block R154, it fits much better and the thickness is adjusted in all the right places

 

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock189_jpg.jpg

the flow of the casting is much nicer, this has a much nicer finish look to it

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock193_jpg.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock196_jpg.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock199_jpg.jpg

I dig the diagonal lines in the housing, that adds wall thickness to the radius of the curve in the housing and torsional strength for the twisting motion

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock200_jpg.jpg

the demensions worked out the have the right wall thickness in the right areas to build strength without much wieght penalty

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock202_jpg.jpg

the throw out bearing was moved back 1/2 inch to get a better pivot point on the folcrum of the clutch fork

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock204_jpg.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock205_jpg.jpg

the depth was absolutly correct and it is a direct ft to the G54 engine using all the same clutch parts that came standard on the carquest with the exception of a $45.00 disc from a Supra 7me engine

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock206_jpg.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock207_jpg.jpg

I have the throw out bodies built at the casting shop now , they are lighter and much easier to build

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock185_jpg.jpg

 

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/R154wideblock186_jpg.jpg

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  • 5 months later...

I gotta, Gotta, gotta finish this work on the Subaru W series and R series Toyota trans this week, just to get into casting, then I can build you the R series wide block and drive shaft

 

 

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/01Subw55.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/08Subw55.jpg

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/10Subw55.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/subtoyadaptor16.JPG

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/subtoyadaptor28.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/subtoyadaptor58.JPG

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/subtoyadaptor72.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/subtoyadaptor80.JPG

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/subtoyadaptor82.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/subtoyadaptor84.JPG

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/subtoyadaptor88.JPG

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you wouldnt happen to make a Toyota 1UZFE to Toyota W58 or R154 bell housing would you? w/ Fork NOT HYD.

The Lexus guys would love you,and they actually have money to spen, not like Cheap tail starquesters! :rolleyes: HEE HEE

Hell id like a 1UZFE to T56 too.

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  • 9 months later...
  • 1 month later...
Bill this is some awesome work. I've spent the last hour drooling over your fab work. I just rebuilt my W58 this past summer. I got a newer W58 from a lexus but it wasn't a direct swap. I ended up cannibalizing the 2 to make one good one. If I would have done a little more research here first I would have loved to have used the 154. Thanks for supporting our community.
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